GLOSSARY 詞彙

Akoya Pearl 珍珠

Agoya pearl is the very first cultured pearl produced for commercial use. Before WWII, Japan was the key Akoya pearls manufacturer and exported overseas. Japan still offers the best seawater cultured pearls from its cool seawater temperature and professional pearl farming.

The size of Akoya pearls ranges from 2mm to 10mm, and are usually seen in white and cream colour. Good quality Agoya pearls are often in round or nearly round shapes, with beautiful overtone or orient. Bigger pieces can be found in semi-baroque or in baroque shapes.

Akoya珍珠為歷史上第一種商業用的養殖珍珠,二戰前日本為主要Akoya珠養植國並出口到海外。時至今日日本仍以冰涼的海水和專業的珍珠養殖技術生產全球最高質的海水養珠。

Akoya珠小至2毫米、大至10毫米,通常以白色和奶白色為主。 優質的Agoya珍珠通常為圓形或近圓形,有漂亮的泛光或珠光;體積較大的或呈奇形或半奇形。 

Art Deco 裝飾藝術風格

The Art Deco movement took the world by storm in the 1920s and 30s across architectural, graphic and jewelry designs. Designers at the time created striking and stylish jewelries using simple lines, geometric motifs, with influences from Egypt, China and Japan. Original Art Deco jewelry pieces remain coveted in the antique market.

It is important to note that whether a piece of jewelry is made during the Art Deco period but made after the period would impact its pricing value.

裝飾藝術風格於 1920 至 1930 年代席捲世界多地的建築、平面等與生活息息相關的設計媒界。當時的珠寶設計大量運用簡單的線條、幾何圖案;並吸收了來自埃及、中國、日本等地的異國元素、與之前的Art Nouveau風格截然不同;開啟二十世紀的麾登時尚。原裝的裝飾藝術風格的珠寶首飾至今乃是古董市場上炙手可熱的珍品。

購買珠寶時要留意是否原裝二、三十年代的成品或是之後以此風格設計的;收藏價值可能有別。

 

Single Cut Diamond 單反鑽石

Single Cut Diamond is roughly octagonal in shape with a total of only 18 facets: nine facets above the girdle, and another nine below. Single Cut diamonds were used in the mid century for small stones(less than 0.10 carat), usually in pave settings or clusters surrounding a principal stone.

切割主線呈八角形,只有18個切面。在腰團上、下方各有9個切面。 單反石在五、六十年代用於少於十份的小鑽石上,用於襯托主石或密釘鑲設計。

Old Cut Stone 舊式切割寶石

Old Cut, or Old-European Cut, was the leading gems faceting style between the 1890s to the 1930s. They are found in pieces from the Georgian (1714-1837) , Victorian (1837-1901), Edwardian (1901-1915) and Art Deco periods (1920s-1940s). They are cut by hand and are characterized by 58 facets, smaller table, flat culet, higher crown and greater total depth comparing to the modern round brilliant cut stones. Old Cut is designed to preserve as much weight as possible. 

Since many of these stones, especially the larger ones, have been re-cut into round brilliants in the later days, they are unique and rare in availabilities. Pieces with original antique settings have a higher collectable value.

舊式或舊歐洲式切割於1890年代到1930年代為寶石切割的主流。這類型的切割常見於喬治亞時期(1714-1837)、 維多利亞時期(1837-1901)、愛德華時期(1901-1915)和裝飾藝術時期(1920s-1940s)的珠寶。 舊式切割寶石為人手切割,具有58個切面;與現代明亮式切割圓鑽相比,舊式切割寶石桌面較小、有平的底尖、較高的冠;整體比例較為厚身。設計原則為盡量保留寶石的重量。

很多舊式切割寶石、尤其是一克拉以上的,已被重新切割成現今流行的圓形明亮式,因此在市場上較罕有;如鑲工為原裝舊工便更具收藏價值。


 

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